New Zealand North & South

Tuesday, June 7, 2016

Photos of New Zealand -2016


Each of the 3 photos below is the cover of a photo album. You double click on the link Below the photo and it takes you to that album. If you are also interested in reading about the trip, it begins after the photos.

#1 Album





#3 Album




New Zealand North and South


Intro-A Blip On The Radar

New Zealand has been on our radar for sometime. Sara has expressed interest and we knew people who had been there.  I had briefly visited Auckland years ago.  After 3 days of continuous rain I saw no reason to ever return.  But 40 years have gone by. Hobbits were discovered and documentaries have been made about their culture. Lord of the Rings was filmed on location in the Mountains of New Zealand.  We are given a glimpse of Hobbit life in their rugged and magical homeland. 

New Zealand is all about the people, the landscapes, and the trekking.  It’s two large islands with many smaller ones just offshore.

The Maori’s were New Zealand’s first inhabitants.  They have always intrigued us.  They call New Zealand, Aoteara, land of the long white cloud.

The indigenous people, the Maori, are a proud lot, and have contributed greatly to the cultural development of their country.  Their influence is felt everywhere in the arts, government, and commerce. Yet today they represent only 15% of the population.

We hoped to learn more about their culture and self-confident spirit. A serious swim away is Australia and another tribal family. The aboriginals are historically a nomadic people.  The outback of Australia is their home. Yet, as a people they seem more passive.  Perhaps wandering the arid desert, the vastness of place, and the burning sun, factor significantly in their cultural development.  In the same way the colder, mountainous environment of New Zealand has molded the Maori into a fierce adversary for any colonial predator.


Pics & Scribbles

I’m an avid photographer. It helps me to notice my world in more detail.  It gives me an opportunity to share the beauty of a place and a message. The photo can be interpreted.  It’s often a reminder of what we have to lose.


New Zealand is very much about the natural environment. There are such a variety of unusual landscapes.  This is a time in our history where over population and the consequences of development have altered the landscape forever. New Zealand with its low population and minimal industrial development reminds us of what is precious and important.

I kept a daily journal this trip.  I bought a keyboard for my iPad. No longer did I need to hunt and peck each letter. Writing was so awkward before that I limited my scribbles to one-word sentences.  This time I could embellish, completing an entire thought. 

I tried to capture the feeling of places while I was there.  Thus my writing is more an interpretation of my momentary experience.  As well it flows from place to place visited, a chronology of our journey.   If you follow along on a map, you can observe the route taken. If you want to visit New Zealand yourself, this blog could save you hundred of planning hours.


A Postponed Adventure

My bucket list is long.  New Zealand moved up several notches fueled by research and the gossip of other adventurers.  Partly I had postponed visiting the country for false notions.  I thought it required us to bring outdoor equipment. I thought that the road system would be more primitive. I thought that lodging would be at a minimum and that we would be camping every night.  I imagined it to be an expensive country.  I thought that I’d have to join a travel group rather than self-tour on my own schedule.   I found out that none of these things were true. 

It’s a safe country in which to travel.  There are no dreaded local diseases. There are no poisonous snakes and no ferocious animals lurking in the rain forest. 

Give Me Some Latitude

Latitude is an imaginary line parallel to the equator. There is nearly 15 degrees difference is Latitude from the top of the North Island to the Bottom of the South Island.  Like Chile and Argentina the landscapes vary dramatically.

A spin of the globe demonstrates that the Latitude of Auckland on the North Island is close to Buenos Aires. The latitude of Queenstown on the South Island reaches the Glacier fields in Patagonia. Thus though great distances apart, each country experiences similar climatic zones.

This is the magic of New Zealand.  It is compact country, narrow and long, with diverse landscapes. There is no place that is more than 80 kilometers to the sea.  And its summer months of January and February coincide with Argentina’s. In Oregon it would be wintertime, just the opposite.

Not Many Kiwis

People are in the minority. You never feel overwhelmed by humanity as you do in India or China.   95 % of the population is farm animals.  Kiwis, as New Zealanders are called, tend to cluster in the cities. The rural areas are under populated.  Only sheep, unshorn or sheared, and herds of cattle crowd your view. 


There are lots of forests, populated thick with trees. Timber harvesting is apparent everywhere.  Forestry is still a thriving industry, fueling a culture of wood products and timber exports.


Grass thrives and populates once forested land.  Everywhere you go the ethereal landscape is surprisingly green.   The clouds are always there, stacked high in foreboding shades of gray.  They are nature’s sprinkler system.  They keep things growing. The rain inspires moss to cover fences and grass to shroud the hills abundantly.


What About The Roads

The narrow roads of New Zealand twist and turn, wind up and down, then around and through the terrain like a huge serpent. On a drizzly day with the cloud ceiling draping the hills in a veil of mist, you need extra care to navigate safely.

 Not only are these 2 land roads slow going, but, unlike many countries, you drive on the left. An important mantra is to always keep the steering wheel to the middle of the road. This is most important after completing a turn.

The many bridges that you’ll cross funnel down to one lane. Some are several blocks long.  Extra caution will ensure you save passage. There is no place to pull off, only back up, if you encounter an oncoming car. The right of way rule is your friend.  

You share the roads with turnpike doubles, moving at maximum velocity.  You can’t allow yourself to be distracted by New Zealand.  It’s better to pull off the road for breathtaking waterfalls, hobbits, and pointy hilltops. 
Farm equipment, trucks, locals, and summertime tourists dictate your speed.  You always need to plan extra travel hours for the unexpected.  We logged over 5000 kilometers in Toyota rentals.  It was fortunate that we chose a smaller compact, given the narrowness of the roads, but with sufficient horsepower to cruise through the hills.  

The traffic thins as you leave the cities. Your attention changes from pedestrians to sheep and the proximity of oncoming traffic. The roads can be so narrow, some vehicles barely fit between the lines.


Auckland Revisited

I visited Auckland for the first time 46 years ago. We were on our way to Australia as fresh immigrants committing to a new life Down-Under.  That’s another story, but I do remember Auckland.  I was very excited to have a chance to stopover in New Zealand.  It was raining when we arrived.  Now a little rain means nothing to a webfoot Oregonian, but this rain came in buckets.  It was tropical.  It continued for 3 days.  We happily fled for Sydney.


I had no desire to ever return to Auckland.  My memories were soggy and my feet still damp from the last visit.  But I had been hearing consistent rumors about the magic of New Zealand.  Whispers hinted of its stunning middle earth landscapes, the home of hobbits.  It was time to give New Zealand a second chance.

There was a drizzle when I arrived in Auckland for the second time. Had it been raining daily for over 40 years?  I soon discovered that like Oregon the abundant greenery wasn’t wizardry or an artistic touch, it was directly due to that heavenly wetness.


You begin to appreciate the beauty of a place when the sun comes out.  You see the definition of things differently in the contrasting panorama of light and shadows.   Auckland is a modern city with impressive buildings and an abundance of Asian restaurants. One meal might be Korean, while the next sushi, Thai, or Vietnamese.

You don’t think much about the hills of Auckland, other than that they are steep and profuse. It’s difficult to phathom that this region has violently erupted at least 50 times in the last 500 years.  Geologists insist that Auckland is an active volcanic field.

The indigenous people of New Zealand are called Maori.  They successfully repelled early colonial invaders for many years.  The Volcanic hills of Auckland offered defendable, lookouts.  Eventually the vastly superior, well-armed British forces, numbering in a ratio of 4 to 1, were able to drive the Maori from the North. They confiscated many hectares of Maori land, selling it to foreign immigrants.       

Auckland locals take full advantage of the fertile volcanic soil that the inner earth has provided.  It’s excellent for growing food and grapes.  It explains the many magnificent gardens.  Porous volcanic rock is also very useful.  It filters and forms natural pools of fresh, unsalted water.   Auckland is the perfect place to Hobbitate!


The city is located on the water.  There is easy access to beautiful off shore islands, bays for body surfing, and shorelines for tramping.




Its parks and cityscape feels modern, though the skyline is interspersed with a few historic relics.  The Ferry Building is a good example. Many such buildings have been repurposed to accommodate the changing times.  Auckland’s a pleasant town for walking.  It also has an excellent bus system should you want to explore the surrounding districts.

The Sky Tower is a prominent feature of the Auckland skyline. The top is used as a bungee jumping platform to the city sidewalks below.  The tower itself reminds me of the Space Needle in Seattle.  In fact Auckland has a Northwest feel, but with a peculiar English accent.  Like in OZ, common words can have different meanings.  


The Auckland Museum is a beautiful monumental structure resting on a hilltop. It has a gorgeous stone facade with eight massive, but inviting Doric columns at the entry.  Inside there is a three-story exhibit of Maori Culture.  It depicts their origins from the pacific islands and includes artifacts of early Maori tools, weapons, pottery, and clothing. The exhibit is an informative presentation of Maori migration and settlement, the foundation of New Zealand’s cultural heritage. 

Money Talk

International visitors will need to change money and money change houses are everywhere.  Pay attention to the conversion numbers. Instead of saying 1US$ = 1.40NZ dollar, they refer to a proportionate amount, 1NZ dollar =US .71 cents.  The thing to remember is that you get a better exchange rate with a lower proportionate number.

 1NZ dollar= US.76 is another way of saying that 1US$=1.30NZ dollars.  .71 is a lower number than .76, but in fact it represents a better exchange rate. If you think that you’re getting a great rate at .85, you are mistaken.

Exchange house and bank rates can vary up to 5% so check a couple of rates before the transaction.  Hotels that exchange money are the worst with transactional fees as high as 15%. Not to worry, both the Euro and US dollar go further in New Zealand than they do at home.

The South is much more expensive than the North Island.  Best way to travel is with some cash, relying mainly on a couple of no fee credit cards.   You get the best international exchange rates daily when you use your card.  In most hotels 1.5% will be added to the bill for using your card.  This is still a better exchange than changing cash with a moneychanger. 

Some change houses will try and confuse you by offering a great rate. They then ask you for several small NZ notes so that they can give you bigger notes, as they don’t have small change.  This is often a scam.  You need to pay close attention to what you are quoted at the exchange window.  Never complicate the transaction by combining any of the local currency with your currency.




Waiheke Island Tramp        

 Tramping is the New Zealand word for trekking, backpacking, or hiking.  One of our favorite tramps was on Waiheke Island, a high-speed ferry ride from Auckland. These catamarans glide calmly and swiftly over the ocean surface even with a bit of chop. Within 40 minutes you’re landing at Matiatia Wharf.


We tramped from the ferry landing to the village of Oneroa. We hiked the hilly shoreline trail, above aqua colored bays each a potentially secluded getaway for the day. Some appeared isolated and pristine, as if we had just discovered them.  Others were full of local skiffs and sailboats.
In one bay we discovered oysters for the taking. It was low tide and they would be easy to harvest.  A few locals, exploring the beach, paid no attention to them. I was uncertain as to whether you could, finding out that later that you can. 

During summertime, however, the oysters are thinner.  It's the breeding season.  They fatten up in the fall. A local shared an interesting trick.  She’ll collect the oysters puts them in her freezer. When she takes them out, they pop open ready to eat.  No Shucking!

In some sections of the trail, vineyards swept down steep hillsides to caress the sea. The quiet, personal nature of our tramp was a meditative experience. With the abundance of flowers in bloom, you felt adrift in a mythological land of fairies and magical moments.

Our tramp gave us a taste of the Te Ara Hura, an extensive 100-kilometer trail system.  It circles the island and crisscrosses inland through small towns to opposite sides of the island.

You can spend an entire day tramping and exploring this beautiful island, then return to Auckland in the evening.  Or you can spend weeks.  Along the way you’ll encounter good beaches for sunbathing and swimming. Be careful of rip tides.  Always check with locals before going in the water. 

 Many artists and organic farmers call Waiheke home.  It has its own distinct culture comprised of creative sorts that will engage you in conversation about where you are from and why you came to New Zealand.

Rotorua Bubbles Up

We left Auckland behind and headed through the countryside to the middle of North Island.  Our destination was Rotorua, a geothermal area with colorful, steaming water and bubbling mud pools.  Most fascinating was the Living Maori Village situated on top of thermal waters used for bathing, cooking, heating, and washing. Imagine steam cooking a frozen chicken in 7 minutes. 

Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Grounds

Only a half hour drive from Rotorua, Our morning began with a spectacular geyser at the Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Grounds. It occurs everyday around 10am.  We arrived at the site with 15 minutes to spare.  I was told not to worry.  The geyser would wait for us. Sure enough it did.  We assembled in an outdoor theater with hundreds of others anticipating the eruption.


A ranger climbed up precariously close, next to the geyser, commenting on how few geysers there were in the world.  He stated that the timing and size of the eruption over the last 50 years was surprisingly consistent.    He then did his magic, placing a bag of soap down the cone, activating the eruption.  I think it's the phosphate in the soap that did the trick.  Yes, the performance had a Disney quality to it.  It was billed as a natural wonder and admission was charged.   It was fascinating though that science can lend a helping hand to keep the Geyser performing and on schedule. 


After our disillusionment, we returned to the main thermal field.  Mud pools bubbled and smoldered.  Steaming holes indicated tears in the earth where hot gases escaped.  Some vents gave off a horrible rotten egg odor, brightly yellowed on the rim from hydrogen sulfide in the near boiling water.




Most intriguing was seeing the colorful pools of hot water. Different minerals elicited an array of colors.  The presence of Antimony revealed an intense Orange. Deposits of iron oxide resulted in colorful shades of Reddish Browns.  These minerals created a dramatic contrast with the white crystallized deposits of silica on the edges of the pools. 

Whakarewarewa-Home For Some

Maori language developed in isolation.  It’s beautiful to hear spoken, though I’ve no idea what’s being said.  I count on my ability to read body language for communication.  If a Maori, wide-eyed sticks out a wagging tongue, I’ll leave them my last sweet potato. Due to the assimilation of English speaking people in the last 40 years, only 20% or less of the Maori population are today considered native speakers.  

Whakarewarewa is a Maori thermal village.  Their ancestors settled here centuries ago.  Today the Maori have opened up their village, sharing their culture and traditions with tourists.

Many villagers still use the thermo waters and its steam for cooking. They take daily bathes outside in communal tubs using a gravity fed system of the extremely hot thermal water.  The temperature of the pools are adjusted with cold water from the nearby river.  On one edge of the village is the largest geyser in New Zealand. Pohutu can erupt up to 15 times a day.  Its explosive blow is a dramatic 10 to 30 meters.   

We also learned the significance of the carving on the ancestral meeting house and the challenges faced by the Anglican and Catholic Church for Maori souls. The Anglicans provided a more enlivening service thus more English rather than Italian is spoken in the village.

Waimangu Volcanic Valley Delivers

Each geothermal area appears unique in its formations, colors, and location.  It’s a changing landscape. There is so much geothermal activity in the area that it is only a matter of time before there is another major eruption.  With former eruptions the landscape has been altered forever.

We hiked a steep trail approximately 6 kilometers long.  Every few meters you would witness geothermal activity. There were picturesque lakes with steam rising off them.  The creeks were bathed in the color of local minerals.  All flowed downhill toward another lake with the eerie presence of dead trees standing in the water. The mineralized water undoubtedly presents the perfect soup for petrifying them. 

Hammurabi Springs & Oregon Redwoods

Rotorua sits on the shore of a volcanic lake. It’s the beautiful child of a major eruption. There are pleasant walks along its shoreline. You’ll find many black swans imported from Perth, Australia hustling nibbles.  On the other side, a half hour drive away, you will find the Hammurabi Springs.  Not many tourists go here, but it was well worth the excursion. 

The springs are an inviting blue. In some places thermal waters bubble up from the bottom.  There is a trail that passes along the river to get to the springs.  It winds through a grove of redwoods.  These redwoods are from seeds brought from Southern Oregon.  Many have a primordial, grandiose stature.  I couldn’t resist giving one a hug.
  
Whakatane Beach Town

Whakatane is a quaint, hilly beach town.  It is located less than 2 hours from Rotorua. We were drawn to its isolation, not knowing that it was a destination for Kiwis on holiday.  Some come from South island just for the beach and swimming. Here the water is warm.  There are a few euro travelers, but not many. We stayed in a small motel and soon realized that one of our neighbors was from Portland, Oregon.  He was software engineer, able to work via Internet. He rented a home in Auckland for 6 months, put his kids in a local school, and invited Grandma and Grandpa along for the adventure. Times are changing.

Small towns are my favorite.  It would only take a day to familiarize your self with Whakatane.  We roamed the waterfront and watched local Maori kids swimming in the fast moving current of the Whakatane river. Several Maori families were enjoying a BBQ and beer in the riverside park.  They listened to loud music and all were covered with tattoos, many on their faces and neck. I’ll admit that facial tattoos can be intimating, though I didn’t feel threatened. These were locals enjoying the afternoon with their kids.

 Later we stopped off at The Office.  It’s a local bar that serves the most delicious range fed New Zealand beef. Fish was the other possibility, expensive at the Office, but cheap to buy, fresh off the boats. Even though we had a full kitchen in our room, neither of us felt like cooking.   Well fed we explored the few local shops on Main Street before venturing back to our motel. 

Whakatane is also a port and a gateway for adventurers wanting to explore White Island, an offshore active volcano. There was a momentary beehive of activity along the riverside walk when the tour boats were loading. Otherwise, we had the place to ourselves.  Opposite the river, the steep hillsides were blanketed with wild flowers in bloom everywhere. It gave Whakatane a surreal feeling.

On day 2 we explored nearby Ohope with its long flat beach where we were able to walk for hours and collect colorful seashells.  The water was shallow for some distance off shore and surprisingly warm.  As the tide rose, I noticed a lady collecting small clams, locally called Pip.

You only needed to stick your hand a short distance into the warm sand to release many pip. You’re allowed 150 per day per person.  That’s not many as their quite small.  We took some back to our motel and put them in a bucket of fresh water for a few hours.  Once they had filtered the sand out of their system they were ready to be steamed. In 5 minutes their shells popped open. Dipped in butter or not, they were deliciously seasoned by their time in the ocean.  I imagined myself, a modern day Crusoe, and reminisced over our good fortune and the amazing meal we prepared provided by the sea.   
 
Huka Falls They Do

The Huka Falls are impressive.  The larger, main river rushes by, but some of its water, funnels into a narrow, steep cut in the rocks ninety degrees perpendicular to it.  Here the water picks up speed during its descent.  Dangerously churning white water develops spilling its guts in the form of a spectacular waterfall, to a tributary river below.  To get to the falls you need to spend a night in Lake Taupo.  You won’t suffer there.  It’s very quaint though very touristic during the summer season.

The Turangi Door To Paradise

Turangi is heaven for fly fishermen.  We stayed in a lodge on a pristine river where fishermen could wade out to test their skill.  The town itself is smaller than small. 

There weren’t many restaurant choices, though our room was fully equipped for cooking.  We discovered the Local Pub in Turangi.  It had delicious home-cooked food that easily washed down with a handle of South Island brew. 

Nearby Turangi is Ruapehu Mountain in the Tongariro National Park.  This park is a world heritage site and offers spectacular vistas of nearby lakes and extinct volcanoes. The volcanic plateau landscape is so dramatic that it was the perfect backdrop for scenes in Lord of the Rings.

There are hikes in this region considered some of the most scenic in the world.  One tramp is the Tongariro Alpine Crossing.  It takes 10 hours or an overnight in a Refugio.  It requires good weather and shuttle back to your car or hotel, as it’s unidirectional.  We weren’t prepared for overnight camping, but we were never disappointed with our many day hikes. 

One memorable trek was to the Tupapakurua Falls.   The trail meandered through native bush with colorful lichens, mosses, and gorgeous ferns.  The falls revealed itself like an oasis in a dry, desolate landscape.  It was a dramatic accent to the subtler tones of the surrounding vegetation.  

The falls were inspired by a deep gully.  It was fed, from above, by a crystal clear creek.  Its blue waters churned downhill through an open, arid terrain, adding another visual dimension.

The scenery that surrounded us was dramatically picturesque.  Extinct volcanoes and the snow-capped peaks of Mount Ruapehu and Mount Taranaki were always in view.  Plumes of smoke in other areas indicted active geothermal activity. Before us was the unfolding of a new chapter to this remarkable landscape.

One day we decided to drive up to the lodge on Mt. Taranaki.  The views were incredible at that altitude.  Wind gusts, up to a 100mph, prevented us from hiking the upper trail of the mountain. Unfortunately they had to close the chair lift down.  It could be seen swinging wildly above us.

Instead we did some hiking close to the lodge.  There was a chance that the winds would die down and we could go higher up the mountain.  I cautiously approached a ridgeline with an impressive view of the valley and nearby volcanoes. A turbulent gust rushed behind my sunglasses, lifting them from my face.  They were hurled 30 meters out, over the steep rocky cliff.  It was impossible to retrieve them.  I had become ad material for Croakies.

We hadn't eaten all day and by early afternoon we were starved.  We returned to the local pub in Turangi where we each ordered 4oo grams of range fed beef with a salad side. Range fed New Zealand beef is some of the tastiest in the world.

I washed my meal down with a handle of Speights' Beer. It’s actually illegal to use imperial measurements in New Zealand, so you don’t order beer by the pint.  As volume can vary except if advertised, it’s best to order beer by visually inspecting the glass sizes. A handle of beer has a handle.  It’s the perfect size to quench one’s thirst and remain designated driver.

 I think beer is the New Zealander’s beverage of choice after coffee.  There are hundreds of custom breweries throughout New Zealand. Locals are always more than willing to share their favorites.   

Waikanae Beach Surprises

About an hour south of Wellington is a long, expansive beach.  It’s perfect for walking and a quick refreshing plunge.  The water is still not Oregon Coast cold.

Waikanae sits in front of Kapiti Island.  This interruption undoubtedly affects the wave action keeping things kid sized.  Thus there are many families present with small children enjoying the shallow water.  It remains knee deep for some distance from shore.  Interestingly there is a tractor launching service to assist boats in and out of the shallows.

We drove here from Turangi in about 4 hours.  The scenery was deforested land, mainly hilly, covered in vibrant green grass, sheep and cattle enjoying a meal or taking a snooze. 

The landscape reminded me of early Oregon years.  New Zealand’s forest, like Oregon’s during the forties and fifties, was being clear-cut.  Forested land appeared plentiful, thus little interest in replanting.  Yet harvested logs would never be able to meet the insatiable domestic and foreign market demand. Replanting is essential to sustainability.

The trees will run out and the mills will close. A logger, good at clear cutting, can’t easily transition to sheep shearing.  Timber, like wool, are renewable resources that require responsible harvesting.  New Zealand can learn from the mistakes of other countries.  It’s disheartening when I think of future generations who may never know the great forests of their ancestors. 

Windy Wellington Seaside Walks & Gardens

Wellington surprises you with its charm.  It’s hilly with abundant vistas.  It’s historic, yet the cityscape has been upgraded in a thoughtful manner.  Like Patagonia, Wellington winds are memorable.   Anyone with hair in place is using gel.  The wind adds to the city’s character and the characters that thrive within its boundaries. 

Like the funicular system in Lisbon, cable cars provide a shortcut to the top of Wellington.  There you’ll find magnificent cityscapes.  Most impressive, though, is the downhill stroll through the wonderful botanical gardens.  New Zealand weather allows for a variety of plant life. You are surprised repeatedly by the symphony of vegetation.

In the lower slopes you’ll find an historic graveyard full of stories. It sits juxtaposed against the buildings below it.  There is uniqueness to every marker.  The gravestones have colored, marking the years gone by.  Close inspection reveals the names of early settlers who in some way contributed to the development of Wellington.

 Soon you leave the gardens and naturally flow into busy city streets.  What you find is never boring.  Gazing upward, your eyes feast on the historic treasure of Wellington’s early architecture.

Wellington streets are horse and buggy wide with many of them one way. This makes driving a challenge, but does not deter Wellington from being a great walking town.  There is a gorgeous walkway and bike path that mirrors the shoreline of the bay front.  It meanders for miles, passing small beaches perfect for bathing, restaurants, food carts, and several yacht clubs.  Sailing is a big pastime in Wellington given the amount of boats moored in the harbor.  In Auckland every third person has a boat. I imagine the same hold true for Wellington. 

We planned to be in Wellington on a weekend and that chances of finding a dance were good.  We found a milonga a short walk from our hotel. The organizer, Adriana, was originally from Argentina.  You could sense her influence.  There was a tango class in progress when we arrived.  Afterwards experienced dancers began to show up.  For the size of the community the attendance was good.  Over 80 dancers attended.  As is the norm in smaller communities, there was lots of socializing besides dancing. Everyone was very friendly to us, the music was good, and there were nibbles and refreshments for all.  It happened to be my birthday and with a couple of other Aquarians, I enjoyed a birthday waltz with the dance community.

We also finally got to meet Alva, a tango dancer, with whom we had been exchanging emails.  She is a sweetheart and was so helpful with must visit places and tango options in NZ. We were disappointed that we missed her last visit to BsAs. 

Our hotel was a couple of blocks from Cuba Street. There you’ll find a plethora of restaurants and bars. It has a hippie charm and is a main ingredient of Wellington commentary.  On the weekend the Cuba street night market erupts with over 70 portable restaurants, all vying for your attention. It was hard to choose as the selection was overwhelming delicious. There was an interesting selection of cuisine from all over the world that speaks of the diversity of Wellington residents today.  Some of my more memorable picks included veggie and pulled pork crepes, Jamaican dishes and Thai soups, as well as home prepared New Zealand dumplings.  All choices were excellent and easily complemented with a fresh fruit Lassi. 

From Wellington we would take the ferry to the South Island.  Our rental car however was required to be returned.  Another would be waiting for us on the other side of the Cook Strait. These waters connect the Pacific Ocean with the Tasman Sea.  They can be unpredictable and rental companies minimize their risk of damage by requiring this contractual footnote. 

By chance we happened on the local Budget car rental. We needed to confirm our drop off date at the ferry terminal. Auckland Budget informed us that Wellington staff would be waiting at the docks.  You leave the car with them, walk on the ferry, and pick up another rental on the South Island.  It sounded so simple.

That’s when Budget truth met Budget fiction.  Firstly finding the ferry terminal turn off was the first challenge. There is a freeway entrance, overpasses, and several streets that converge at the ferry turnoff.  If you are a local and know the way, it’s easy. On a map it’s daunting.  Given the abundance of one-way streets, a mistaken turn could take blocks to rectify.

We needed to fill up with gas on the way to the ferry. There was only one gas station between the terminal and our hotel. Navigating there through a maze of one-way streets was the first challenge.  

The Earth In Your Pocket 

Luckily I had bought an iPad App called Pocket Earth.  I downloaded all the maps for NZ, including city maps.  When you had a Wi-Fi connection, you could easily plan your day, including a handful of must visit destinations.  Offline you could zoom in on highly detailed street maps and see your current GPS location.  This feature was not available in rural areas, but streets and other references told you where you were and indicated the next turn to your goal. This tool became a lifesaver many times throughout our adventure.

Each night I planned our route including the location of our next hotel.  When entering or navigating around a city, it became an essential tool getting us to our destination, sometimes even after sunset.

Using Pocket Earth we were able to navigate quite easily the confusing array of one-way Wellington streets.  We were able to note upcoming landmarks that indicated our need to turn up ahead.  When traffic is heavy, I relied on Pocket Earth.  Sara, as navigator, became quite adept at getting us to where we needed to go. Specialized GPS equipment was of course another option, but redundant technology with such sophisticated apps.   

Once we could physically see the ferry terminal, we had a better reference of where to turn.  We were told to go to Lot One.  If it was full, we were told to go to another lot. We were reminded that with no on sight attendant to leave the keys in the Drop box inside of the Departure Terminal.

So we go to the first lot, but it’s full.  The next lot is not so easy to find.  The parking grounds are huge and all spaces were taken. There was no representative there to check us in, but we found a local familiar with the parking lot system.  He directed us to another lot where we found a space.  I took date and time-stamped photos of the speedometer, gas gauge, and all 4 sides of the vehicle.  This showed the drop off condition of the car should any issues arise. 

Picton To Nelson

The trip by ferry was another highlight of our New Zealand experience. The open water portion between the two islands was over quickly.  The swells were large but with few white caps.  You could imagine a stormy day.  Most of the passage was in narrow fjords surrounded by hills. The views were breathtaking and the sea smooth as glass.

We passed many smaller islands as we journeyed toward Picton. The air was crisp and slightly moist against your face.  Then the clouds rolled in and the sun disappeared. The clouds, backlit by the sun, added depth and dimensionality to the hills stacked, one after the other.  They hugged the shoreline as if ascending from the sea. The human footprint was negligible, other than an occasional fish farm.

The busy port of Picton is set in a beautiful bay.  We immediately headed to the Budget Car office to pick up our rental.  Instead of blue, we now had a white vehicle. I’d venture to say that the majority of all rental cars on the South Island are white.  They showed dirt and damage easily. Perhaps the color helped deter rentals from dusty, rocky roads where you were not allowed to drive. The South Island is less inhabited than the North. There are more unpaved roads into isolated farms and coastal bays. 

It was another gorgeous drive on a very windy road to Nelson. The scenery was dramatic.  We passed many coves, only visited by foot. The surrounding, dense forest felt primal. We sighted a large ship, loading timber. Hopefully it was not an omen of a future environmental catastrophe.

 I’ve camped via Zodiac up fjords in Canada. I’ve seen old growth forests that have been clear-cut leaving the hills denuded. After only 2 years major erosion is evident.  You need a boat to access such remote areas. Canadians would not tolerate these destructive harvesting techniques if they saw these slopes. 

Laid Back Nelson

It was raining in Nelson when we arrived.  It was a downpour that felt more tropical than Oregon’s usual drizzle. It would be difficult not to grow green in such a place.   We checked into our hotel and enjoyed its luxury and a hot bath.

Our first full day in Nelson was a rainy one as well. It didn't discourage us from exploring the town.    The streets were abandoned, absent of foot traffic.  The town had an artistic charm.  We investigated several local menus. We settled on fish chowder and a handle of locally brewed beer.  It was the perfect combo to brighten up our rainy afternoon.   

We decided to stay extra days in Nelson.  We needed to postpone our visit to the national park until the weather improved. We used the time to explore surrounding towns.

Our excursion took us to Rabbit Island where we were warmly greeted by the sun. Off the coast the sky was full of billowy clouds in deep shades of foreboding grey.  It was still raining in Nelson only 30 minutes away.  The beach was long and expansive absent of people.  The sea was capped with white water.  Waves rolled in and crashed on the sandy shoreline. 

 After a leisurely stroll on the beach, we continued exploring the coastal region.  We visited the small fishing port of Mapua.  It was a charming village on a tidal river.  There in a local fish market, we ordered our first fish and chips. They were perfectly prepared. They were not overcooked nor saturated with oil. The sun seemed to follow us.  We lunched outside, then explored Mapua’s handful of shops.

It was time to head back to Nelson.  I had read about a back road through the countryside.  The meandering road was hilly, full of sheep, vineyards, and hop fields.  In the middle of nowhere we came upon the oldest pub in New Zealand.  It’s a national treasure with an historic feel.  We shared a handle of local brew and contemplated the tranquil landscape sweeping down from the Pub’s hilltop location. 

We also stopped at a local farm along the way buying a huge bag of apples and kiwi fruit. It reminded me of my early years and excursions with family from Portland to Hood River, Oregon.  You could buy apples and cherries that you picked in the orchards at wholesale farm prices.  They weren't inflated with shipping and distribution costs.  You support the passion and philosophy of the farmer dealing directly with his farm. You know the provenance of your food, and how it is produced.  

In this instance there was a jar to deposit your money for anything that you bought.  It was nearly full.  I pondered the unwritten code.   I lamented the passing of rural trust in Oregon when the egg vendor’s stand was robbed. I hoped that many generations would know the value of this code.

Nelson is an old port town that has been renovated with the creativity of local artists.   It is the gateway to the South Island and its oldest settled city.  It feels polished, but not particularly historic.  Many creative types have settled here and thus it is host to several arts and music festivities.  It’s not too big and not too small.  It’s a good compromise. Almost everyone in transit between the North and South Island visits here. Passersby revitalize the energy of the place with fresh ideas.  If you are craving more stimuli, Wellington is only a day away by ferry.  

Able Tasman National Park

Nelson sits near the water against the mountainous backdrop of the Able Tasman National Park.  The sun finally returned, filling the sidewalks with people and a fresh cheery disposition. We explored the town in more detail.  We also secured boat tickets to explore the coastal region of the Able Tasman National Park.

The next morning we again awoke to an inviting day. We had to drive about 1 hour to the boat landing.  We stopped for breakfast and picked up some sandwiches.  The parking lot was filling up fast when we arrived, so we immediately went to the onsite booking office to confirm our departure. 

The water was calm as we traveled up the coast about 2 hours.  Our boat stopped several times to drop off other passengers exploring different regions of the park. We chose our section as it supposedly offered some exceptional vistas.  We were not disappointed.  

We were dropped off on an open, sandy beach.  The boat pulled into the shallows, dropped anchor, and cantilevered a long gangplank close as possible to the shore.  The water was knee-deep with gentle waves.  A few steps and you were on the beach.  It was so beautiful with white sand and sun. After the boat departed and other passengers had left the beach, we considered just hanging out there and enjoying the solitude.  Unfortunately we only had a 6-hour window to get to the boat pickup point several kilometers away. 

No sooner had we left the beach than a large bee stung Sara.  I could tell that she was in pain.  I checked that the stinger was out. There was some redness around a small welt.  Any medical support would be at the pick up point.  You prepare for warmth, thirst, and hunger, but not for a bee sting. Thankfully she was not allergic and we were able to continue our hike.

 It began with a very steep climb to the ridgeline above the beach.  We then hiked the ridgeline.  Our objective was to hike from Bark Bay to Anchorage Bay.  Along the way we traversed a suspension bridge.  It was strung high above a ravine with a fast, moving river snaking below.  We weren’t expecting its precarious, springy movement. The pitch and sway of the bridge would make Disney cringe.  You needed to hold on tightly and move slowly.

The vistas on the hike were spectacular.  Below us were isolated bays rimmed in white.  There were solitary yachts moored off tiny islands.  In low tidal flats sailboats were resting on their keels.

Our trek through the forest at midday was surprisingly cool.  The canopy hung low and shaded the trail. There were no services so we brought water and sandwiches.  We enjoyed our lunch by a babbling brook in virgin forest.

We took advantage of the low tide at Torrent Bay.  We arrived just before slack. With the tide out, it was possible for us to walk the flats of the estuary for a couple of kilometers.  It was a barren, colorless landscape, littered with clams and tiny creeks that cut through the sandy, rocky bottom.  All would soon change again as the sea reclaimed the estuary.  The sea would rise to 4 meters in the middle.  The flats became progressively shallower as the bottom rose to meet the tree-lined coast. We were able to shorten our walk by nearly an hour and half. 

You needed to plan your crossing so as not to get caught in the rising tide.  When we reached the opposite shoreline, the trail over the embankment was relatively flat. We didn't need to climb any steep hills.  A short, 5-minute walk through the woods deposited us at Anchorage Beach.  We had reached our pick up point for the returning boat.

It was a beautiful, white sandy beach with lazy rolling waves.  Sara was able to swim in the ocean.  I found the water slightly cold, but nothing like Oregon’s coastal waters. 

Some trees, standing well above the canopy, were dying. We observed this in several places in the park.  We were informed that they were non-native white pine. The pine grows fast but doesn't allow anything to grow below it.  Thus the forest service was injecting poison into the trees to kill them. They were then cut and removed from the park environment.

Where The Land Meets The Sea

Any New Zealand experience will involve hours on coastal highways. Major cities are located on the coast and scenic roads traverse the coastline from one city to another.  Thus it became useful to understand the vocabulary used to describe the sea where it interfaces with the land.  

An inlet is an indentation of a shoreline.  It is usually long and narrow.  It often leads to an enclosed body of water, such as a sound, bay, lagoon, or marsh. A small, sheltered inlet or bay is called a cove.  A fjord describes a deep-sided bay.  A sound, like the famous Milford Sound, is a series of fjords or inlets. And a large inlet can be wider than a bay.

Chance Meetings & Motel Camping

Sara and I are always meeting new people when we travel.  A typical day includes many opportunities for interaction. In the morning we chatted with a French couple living on their yacht and sailing around the world.  Later we met a Texan and his English wife, a doctor, who spend a year working in a rural area of NZ.  They've returned three times since 2011.  They love New Zealand and its people.  On our midday trek, we met a pleasant Dutch couple on the trail and hiked together for several hours. Just as we had met, we parted ways, richer for our brief encounter.

Each couple, like us, was touring the South island.  Several were doing it with self-contained campers. We choose to rent a car and stay in motels.  I will admit to enjoying the comforts of a huge bed, cable, Internet, and a hot bath every night.  Most rooms had a microwave and always a fridge.

 I feel freer on the road in a small compact.  I’m able to maneuver better on the windy sections. Driving on the left side on some of the narrowest, curvy lanes in the world requires one’s full attention. There is little room for error.  Thus pulling a van or driving a larger vehicle would not be my first choice.  I passed several caravans and large vehicles coming in the opposite direction that were over the middle of the road and on my side.  They were driving at maximum speed inappropriate for someone pulling a rig. 

Westport Overnight

The scenic drive from Nelson to Westport takes you through the mountains. The area offers lots of outdoor activity from rafting, tramping, cycling to panning for gold.  There are several picturesque one street towns and an opportunity to walk across New Zealand’s longest suspension bridge.  The bridge straddles the stunning Buller Gorge. You can see through the mesh floor of the bridge to the river raging below.  

Westport is near the ocean.  We were having difficulty locating our hotel.  No one had heard of it.  I showed 2 local girls a photo of the hotel.  They looked at me confused, saying that there is no such hotel in Westport.  It turned out that the online listings for Westport, New Zealand included a hotel from Westport, Ireland.

It was nearly dark when we realized the problem. It was high season and we had no lodging.  We returned to the main road.  I had seen several motels, most with no vacancy signs. Fortunately the first motel we checked had a room cancellation.  There was no hesitation.  We took it. 

The room was perfect.  It was well located to the limited activity of Westport.  We could walk everywhere. It was a self-contained unit with free wifi. 

Strategy & Other Apps

I usually book ahead for centrally located lodging with amenities.  Most small town motels offer free wifi, while gateway cities, like Auckland are resisting it.  Hotels charge a connection fee of $5-10 per day.

Some try and seduce you to book online offering free wifi.  You later discover that connection is limited to only a half an hour. At coffee houses and restaurants, wifi is free. 

Travelers need to be connected.  In today’s techo-world, Internet makes possible longer trips.  I use it daily for research, booking hotels, and phone calls all over the world. A Skype call to Westport, Ireland for less than a dollar got us a refund on a nonrefundable booking.

If you’re unfamiliar with Skype, you need to check it out.  I pay for calls, even to cell phones, and the charge is very cheap. Set up a pay as you go account.  Use it for free when you can, but the paid service seems more reliable with a higher call quality.  Since my Skype account is registered in the USA, calls anywhere in the world are initiated from the USA.  In Buenos Aires should I call a cell next door, it’s about .03c a minute, from my account originating in the USA.  It’s even cheaper to cell phones in the USA from Buenos Aires. A wifi connection is required.

Another useful travel tool is WhatsApp.  It’s a great way to stay in touch with family and friends.  It’s free to phone though the quality is not reliable like Skype is.  It’s best used for sharing a photo, a quick note, or a recorded message.  It is more immediate than email. 

I like the flexibility of unstructured travel.  We can stay extra days in special places. This became harder to do in New Zealand as we traveled further south.  Competition for reasonably priced rooms during the high season was keen.  The further south we traveled, the more important it became to book a couple of weeks out.  Thus we modified our strategy. We research an area online, talk with other travelers, and build our adventure around lodging in key towns.  We would spend 3-5 days in one hotel and visit must see points of interest within a 100km radius.  Every night we stayed in the same room. We would plan activities in a circuitous route so that we were always experiencing something new.

The Great Coast Road To Hokitika

The Great Coast Road is one of the top 10 coastal drives on the planet. You’ve left the mountains and are traveling just above the sea.  It’s a gorgeous scenic highway.  We will follow it south from Westport for several days.  It’s only two hours to Greymouth, but this section of the Highway is some of the most interesting.

Our first stop out was Cape Foul Wind.   We saw hundreds of newborn seals swarming the rocks.  It began to rain.  The seas were rolling whitecaps and the winds were strong and forceful.  When the winds carry rain, it penetrates the best of garments unless it's rubberized or plastic.  An umbrella becomes useless, quickly turning inside out.  Within minutes we were drenched to the bone.

Further down the coast we visited the Pancake Rocks. They appear layered like a stack of Aunt Jemina’s. The sea is one of my favorite artists.  It sculpts the shorelines collaborating with the wind, rain, sand, and snow.  Like the Pancake Rocks, nature’s work can be otherworldly, highly detailed, and large in scale. Nearby are the spectacular blowholes of Punakaiki. They compress each wave against its walls projecting foam high above the sea.

The Great Coast Road hugs the ocean on a narrow two-lane highway above bays and rocky outcroppings. With only a foot and a half to spare on either side of your car, large buses and turnpike doubles need to accurately access the middle of their lane.  Caravans or others pulling large boats jockey the dividing line as they exhibit a dangerously false sense of entitlement. Size and width of load seem irrelevant.  No one adjusts vehicle speed.  

We stopped in Greymouth for lunch.  It’s the largest city on the West coast.  It links Christchurch via train or road through the mountains and Arthur’s Pass.  Anyone traveling the Coastal Highway will pass through here. It was for this reason that we would avoid it and continue on to Hokitika Gorge.  

Hokitika The Gorge The Blue

We reach Hoktika that evening. It is 4 times smaller than the population of Greymouth. We preferred its size. Our tiny hotel room even had a view of breaking waves. The town itself is quaint nestled against the sea.  It has an inviting, paved ocean walkway.  If you want a longer walk, you can step onto the beach and explore it for miles.

A highlight of the area is the Hokitika Gorge.  It's a pleasurable ride through rural countryside and sets the tone for the Gorge itself.

You are not prepared for the beauty of it all. It’s a short hike through the woods. The vegetation along the trail is striking.  My favorite was the unusual reddish tipped fern.

 There is suspension bridge above the gorge and river. The water is an unforgettable shade of peacock blue. Down at the river's edge, you can sift the sand for gold and other mineralized stones.

Country roads can be very narrow, 1.5 lanes wide. The good news is that its mostly local traffic. One-way bridges abound, crossing dozens of creeks wrapped in flowers and pastureland.  Driving with the steering wheel to the middle of the road will keep you safe. Traffic is too infrequent to offer you clues.  And the distractions are many, from morning mist hanging over mountaintops, to free range sheep and cattle, feasting on fields of green grass. 

The Glacier Highway Hokitika To Haast

Below Hokitika are the Glacier fields.  They appear on a map to be the ocean side edge of the Mount Cook National Park.  There are no roads inland from here until you get to Haast. This is why you must return to Mount Cook once you have crossed over the coastal mountains. 

Before arriving at the Franz Josef Glacier we stopped for lunch in Havelock, an understated one street town. Little did we realize that we were in the Greenshell Mussel Capital of the world.

We checked out the offerings of three restaurants. The greenshell mussels got my attention, still not realizing where we were.   They have an extraordinary visual appeal.  The shell is rimmed in green.

This was a meal to die for, my favorite in New Zealand. I ordered baked greenshells with different toppings.  There were a couple of dozen open faced shells.   Some were covered with melted, well-aged cheddar, others with spicy garlic flavored sauce and garden fresh herbs. 

Outside the restaurant we compared dishes with a pleasant couple from Kota Kinabalu on the island of Borneo. We all raved about the flavors and the exotic presentations.  He commented that I looked like George Bush.  I told him that ordinarily that would be an insult to many Americans, but that I forgave him as we were new friends.  We both laughed.  He insisted on photos of us with his wife.

 It's worth noticing how such brief interactions can become significant in our lives, if we pay attention and trust our instinct. We immediately liked them.  In fact we were invited to visit them in Borneo. Maybe we will.

The Rain The Glacier

The rains came again.  There was no holding back.  The sky dumped buckets, all day and all night.  Of course the weather change presented an unexpected opportunity.  I could hike to the Franz Josef Glacier and experience the trail absent of people.  The river would be swollen and raging several feet about its normal height and the canyon walls would be sprinkled with hundreds of waterfalls. Without the rain you wouldn’t experience these phenomena.

This trek was a highlight for me. Sara passed and took refuge in our cozy cabin. I had to drive about 10km in the downpour.  I crossed a bridge where the water nearly touched the top. The rain, the mist, and raging river were doing their magic. I was being drawn up the mountain to any experience that might unfold. 

As I pulled into the trailhead parking lot, a Juicy Van camper was pulling out. There were only one or two other cars in a lot that could hold several hundred vehicles.   A young English Blok was driving.  He said that he hadn't climbed to the glacier because of the heavy rain.  I said I'm going to do it.  It's going to be amazing, and not nearly as dangerous as jumping out of a perfectly good plane.     Join me if you like and we can experience it together.  If we run into trouble, there are two of us to manage it. That was all he needed. Soon we were hiking upward, following the riverside trail. The rain continued relentlessly.  Nature tried her best to discourage us, but we kept moving forward.   

For me the hike under such formidable conditions made for a magical adventure. Red stones covered in vibrantly green moss lined the path.  The river can be a striking blue in a week of calm, but not today.  The glacier run off was full of dirt.  White caps and coffee colored surge turned the tranquility of the river into a Class 4 rapid.

One version of the origin of the Franz Joseph Glacier rests on the shoulder of Maori Legend. The glacier was formed from the frozen tears of a native woman.  Her true love fell from the top of the glacier to his death below. Today her frozen tears were melting away under the warm tropical downpour, adding to the swollen river. 

Another version relies on science.  With annual snow depths of 60 plus feet per year, the compressed and melting snow turns to ice.  The ice, subject to gravity, moves slowly downhill where the warmer temperatures convert it into impressive rivers that flow through the valleys below.  More snow than summer-melt is the key to keeping the glacier healthy.  That's not what's happening due to global warming.  2015 turned out to be the warmest year in recorded earth history ever!  Thus the Franz Joseph Glacier, and others around the world are receding rapidly.  A local guide told me that the tramp to the glacier from the trailhead has doubled its distance in only 6 years.  

A glacier moves constantly at different speeds in different parts, due to temperature and the steepness of the landscape.  When the terrain is uneven it causes the surface of the glacier to crack and form crevasses.  In Chile I’ve observed huge chunks of ice break away on the leading edge of a living glacier and crash several hundred feet below to the canyon floor.   The noise shattered the dead silence with a roar and explosion.

The rocks, colors, and vegetation that you encounter at the foot of a glacier are memorable.  I recall finding a solid chunk of gold, fool's gold, weighing nearly 8-10 kilos.  It was a beautiful specimen and definitely a keeper.  I was reminded of Humprey Bogart in Treasure of the Sierra Madre, where he is loading his mules with gold in the high sierras, more gold than he could ever spend, certainly more than he could carry out.  He didn't want to leave a gram behind. So with too much weight and so far from civilization, he never survived the journey.  Thus having backpacked into this remote glacier and with plans to continue backpacking lower Chile and Patagonia for 2 months, I knew there was no way that I could realistically keep that stone.  Its value was memorable as was the lesson taught by Bogart.  I left this marvelous golden specimen of iron pyrite at the river’s head below the glacier.  Someone else might find it again.  They might admire it and conjure up their own fantasy of riches.  On the other hand it may still there.  I'm not saying that I'm never a fool, but this once I felt I had discovered a nugget of truth!

I was soaked from the hike to the Franz Joseph Glacier. I returned to find Sara in motel heaven, the heat turned up, reading a book. Laundry hung everywhere. Her bliss depended on a tin roof and 4 walls. The noise of the rain was deafening.  It poured off the eaves.  The parking lot was a lake.  I took a very hot shower to warm up.  We decided to pass on dinner rather than brave the weather.   In the morning some of my tech clothes were still damp from the high humidity.  The good news was the rain had turned to mist.  We packed and took our breakfast at the Snakebite before heading toward Haast.  What adventure lay before us?

From All Over

Sara and I have been meeting lots of interesting people from all over the world.  It’s impressive the amount of Chinese tourists.  In fact they are such big spenders that signage is now found in both English and Chinese.  Customs are different too and some of the signage reflects these differences.

We are also meeting Japanese, French, Dutch, Germans, but not many Argentines. This is changing rapidly as New Zealand Airlines now offers now offers direct 12-hour flights between Auckland and Buenos Aires. We are also meeting the occasional American, though not many.  This might be in part as many people are on 14-day whirlwind tours.  They have little time for interaction with others outside of their group.  Kiwis also like to travel.   We are meeting friendly folk from different regions of the country exploring their own back yard. 

A Journey of Smells

Smell is just as important a part of your travel experience, as is sight and feel.  I have fond memories of trail hikes where the scent of Jasmine and the smell of pine in the forest awakened me fully to a deeper appreciation of the moment. In the same way the beauty of a pastoral scene is sometimes punctuated with the smell of cow urine.  The cows look so idyllic grazing the surrounding hills bathed in green grass and sunshine. The repugnant, invasive smell of its waste jolts you to the reality of environmental and health issues associated with animal husbandry.

Not Many But Some

There is a noticeable absence of wildlife on the islands. There are no poisonous snakes lurking by the trail.  I didn't see any blood-sucking leeches as you find on treks through Nepal.  Yes, there are a few small rodents and birds, but I've not observed large flocks, say of parrots.  Unlike the flocks of parrots found in the Amazon region or Australia, you might encounter two or three wild parrots. And the only reason that you see them is because they have come to harvest the bounty of left over snacks found in touristic roadside vistas.  Otherwise, these wild parrots blend into the tropical rain forest.  They look heartier and more primitive than other more colorful varieties. Like early settlers, they are able to endure hardship and days of constant rain. 

The sand flies and black flies love it when the winds die down.   All year round it’s open season on tourists and locals. There is no discrimination.  They attack in those moments of contemplation.  When you are standing still, breathing in the beauty of nature.

We are the fruit of the forest. Family and friends are invited to indulge.  I recall the profusion of sand flies in the city of Perth.  This was in the early seventies.  Downtown in the extreme heat of the summer, it was common for Aussie businessmen to wear white shirts.  They appeared to be carrying the weight of the world with shoulders slightly rounded.  In reality their backs were covered with black flies. They were thick like a plague. It was always better to let them crawl over you than disturb them. 

On the beach the abundance of flies was even worse.  If the wind died down you were in trouble.  Only the water saved you. Beware of a curious fly entering your ear, going deep, and unable to find its way out. In only a moment the idyllic setting of a sun drenched, white sandy beach became the place of nightmares.

Bee Sting My Honey

The Manuka honey bees are known for the delicious honey that they produce.  The honey is known also for its antibacterial properties and use in alternative medicine. We don’t think of them as dangerous, but they can be.  
If disturbed they can become aggressive.

In the passing days, Sara’s sting had become infected. We marked the advance of the inflamation with a ballpoint pen. Poison was creeping up her arm. She needed medical attention.   We found a pharmacist who put her on antibiotics.  This slowly reduced the swelling and redness. Medical support in small communities can be intermittent.  A pharmacist is the next best authority. The redness and itching lasted for days.

Sara isn't allergic to bee stings, so imagine if she was. You are never told to watch out for bees on your local treks.  If the tourist centers warned you, I would imagine fewer people would hike certain regions.  And if they did, at least they would be prepared with a medical kit.

Sara’s experience reminded me of an overnight boat tour we took in Hulong Bay, Vietnam. They don’t talk about the condition of the boats. We assume they are safe.   We woke up in the morning to find one of our sister boats had sunk. It was a faulty valve.  6 tourists had drowned.  Only the mast protruded from the shallow waters where several boats were moored. Thus just as it’s important to know the condition of your boat,  it’s always advisable to ask about predators and whether biting insects are a problem in any area you visit.

Rabbits, Possums, Bambis, & Porkers

We saw no rabbits on Rabbit Island.  We did see dozens of rabbit road kill.  I observed only one lively rabbit, happily hopping through bush somewhere in the middle of the North Island. 

When I see deer I think of Bambi.  I think of deer wild and free. Some are wild and hunting them is allowed. But in NZ they are also raised for meat like cattle.  They are range fed with double high fences to keep them corralled.  Deer farms are common and seen as offering great economic potential.  I tried a local deer pie.  I wouldn’t call it a favorite, nor would I recommend it.  Taste is such a personal thing.

We were very lucky to see a wild baby possum.   It was crossing a fog-covered road and had stopped in the middle of it.  They are hunted for their fur.  A full-grown possum is not large, yet its pelt is valuable.  Its fur is a natural insulation twice as warm as mink, perfect for winter gloves and hats. Kiwis don’t eat this scavenger though in some parts of the world they do.  During the depression, Southerners brought possum to Oregon as an alternative food source during the harsh winters.  I was happy to rescue this little one, encouraging it to the roadside before it became exotic road kill.

Wild pig or Capitan Cookers as they are called, are ferocious looking and quite dangerous if cornered.  They are considered delicious to eat and their ferocious tusked-heads are a prized wall trophy.  They bestow bragging rights on the hunter.  Hunting them with dogs has now been restricted.  New Zealand farmers consider them a real menace. The potential conflicting areas of game management have been noted. 

The Kiwi

A Kiwi is a flightless, nocturnal bird and the national symbol of New Zealand.   New Zealander’s are often called Kiwi’s immediately identifying their origin of birth.  But flightless they are not.  I’ve met New Zealanders all over the world.  They love to travel and do so at every opportunity. Not only that each and every one is a delightful in country host.  They are both humorous and helpful, taking time to explain things thoroughly.  Like southern states hospitality style, Kiwis have walked outside to the street in order to orient me in the right direction.  Left or right just will not do!  I appreciate that attentiveness to the details and their kindness.  It doesn’t goes unnoticed.  It is a karmic example of how people should treat each other.  I remember this thoughtfulness when I’m asked directions.

The other Kiwi, the national bird, is rare.  In fact I’ve never seen one. They normally only move about at night and they don't fly.  This makes them easy prey for dogs and cats. Unlike all other birds the Kiwi has its nostrils at the tip of their beak.  They live approximately 70 years and mate for life.

It turns out that a Kiwi egg is quite large, representing a quarter of their body weight.  Of the 50% of the eggs that hatch, a mere 5% make it to adulthood.  Thus with natural and imported predators, their population is endangered.

 Kiwi centers incubate and raise chicks for the wild.  If they can get their weight up to about 1 kilo, it doubles their life expectancy in the wild.  Surprisingly the Kiwi is related to the Emu, a much larger bird, but also flightless.

Haast To Wanaka

Haast is a good place to spend the night.  It’s the last town on the Glacier Highway before heading over the mountains to Wanaka. This area has world heritage recognition and sits on the edge of New Zealand wilderness. It is full of accessible, remarkable scenery.  You need a full day to explore it.

The landscapes are spectacular full of diverse plant life.   You traverse several climatic zones due to altitude changes and distance from the sea.  We made several hikes in rainforests, on trails full of rich vegetation, crossing streams, to spectacular vistas of swift moving rivers and waterfalls.  We easily absorbed 6 hours stopping frequently for photographs.

We enjoyed the quaintness of Wanaka and wished we had more days there. Wanaka sits by a lake surrounded by mountains.  The weather is excellent for growing grapes, tramping, and other outdoor activity. We spent the late afternoon and morning exploring the town before heading off to Queenstown.

Queenstown is only an hour away so we could easily return.  We found so many beautiful places near Queenstown that competed with Wanaka’s charm that we would save our return for another trip.  

Wanaka To Queenstown

There are two roads to Queensland. The slower, spectacular route takes you through the mountains.  The surrounding steep hills hug the road.  Wild flowers were in bloom, and those close to any of the crystal clear streams were thriving and abundant.  There were bumblebees everywhere, visiting every flower, entering and exiting, as though on a quest for the perfect mix of nectar and pollen.

No wonder Queenstown is a major destination.  It's a beautiful lakeside resort town with both summer and winter skiing appeal. Over 2 million tourists descend on the town, mainly during Dec through March.  The expansive views by the lake mesmerize and negate the impact of the crowds behind you.     It's a walking town and although heavily visited, you must join the madness for a few days.

 Just minutes away from the shoreline at the city’s heart, you'll find tranquility and silence.  We stayed on a hillside above the town center. It was quiet with majestic views of the mountains and crystalline aqua lake.  We walked easily downhill to the lakeshore in 10 minutes, ascending the hills back to our B&B with a huff and puff.  Lodging was expensive in Queenstown, double other places, but being central to the city and surrounding region were importance to us.

Queenstown hugs the shore line of Lake Wakatipu . The lake is home to an old coal fired steamship, the former Lady of the Lake.  It's the only one operating in the Southern Hemisphere.  In the early 1900's it moved cattle, sheep, supplies, and people between the isolated farms and civilization.  Now it's a functioning museum piece that offers tours and passage across the lake to isolated sheep stations and cattle farms. 

We were in Queenstown in the summer.  You can only imagine what it would be like in autumn with the leaves changing color.  In winter you'd find snow on the streets. Some outdoor activities would change.  There would be skiing in the mountains.  It’s easy to understand how Queenstown has developed into a year round destination. 

The Thrill Of It All

Queenstown thrills come in the form of adrenalin packed adventure packages.  It could be jumping out of a perfectly good plane, paragliding in tandem, or racing down a narrow canyon in in a jet boat.  Interestingly the jet boat is a New Zealand invention. Its design enables the craft to go up river in very shallow streams.  You only need a few inches of water.  The boats normally have an aluminum hull that is easy to repair if banged on the rocks. 

One of our adrenalin packed experiences involved a missing iPad left in a Haast hotel room. It was loaded with data, accounts, and pictures.  We were in Wanaka when we realized it was missing.  Thankfully it was found and arrangements were made for overnight courier to Queenstown.  Haast was only 2.5 hours away. 

Unfortunately the hotel waited two days to give it to the courier. What was to be a simple recovery was becoming much more involved.  Our 4 days in Queenstown ended on a weekend. There would be no movement until Monday so we would attempt to forward it on to our next destination.

The iPad was close by but trailing us by a day or so.  We'd been on the phone with tracking number and given unconfirmed updates.  On Saturday it wasn’t where it was supposed to be. It was dropped at a station, signed for, but then lost.

The consensus was that it had not been stolen.  You can leave the front door and your car unlocked in this region.  Theft is uncommon.  After another hour on the phone, we decided to modify the forwarding address, another 2 hours away by car.

Oddly all packages are routed overnight through Christchurch on the other side of the mountains.  Say you were in Queenstown and wanted to send a package across town.  It would first route through Christchurch.  This of course exponentially increased the possibilities of where it might be.

After 14 days the iPad surfaced.  It hadn't been addressed properly.  I talked with our tracking agent and suggested that they just hold it in Christchurch.  We would be there in another 2 weeks and could pick it up at the depot.

Arrow Town & Coronate Peak

20 kilometers away from Queenstown sits Arrow Town.  It’s an old mining town situated on the gold-producing Arrow River.  The gold has run out, but the ambience has been preserved. The 1860 architecture has been restored and repurposed into shops and cafes.  The old bank boasts that it was the collection point for harvested gold.

There are pleasant walks along the river. You can wade in it and maybe find a nugget or two.  Wild flowers thrive along the river’s bank. Bees are busy and pay you little attention, unlike the occasional black fly.  

Nearby Arrow Town is Coronate Peak.  A steep, windy road ascends to the ski area.  During the summer para-gliders use the cliffs as a jumping off point.  They cruise the up drafts, slowly descending to the valley floor below.

Silence has its own sound.  It is hard to imagine its impact on our daily living, unless you experience its absence.  In Buenos Aires there is always noise.  Portland is better, but the level of noise seems to be increasing everywhere.  We may not notice the subtle change, but it’s invasive and detrimental to daily living. Ambient noise brings tension to the body, revealing itself in health issues and our interactions with others.

On the journey up Coronate Peak, noise is left on the valley floor. You feel renewed in both your body and psyche when, you are wrapped in the absence of sound. Silence is a gift worth cherishing.  There are apps for your phone that measure sound.  Noise levels above 30db interfere with sleep.

Glenorchy

The drive from Queenstown to Glenorchy is considered one of the top 10 scenic drives on planet earth. It’s 50 clicks on a very windy, narrow, road along the lake. The vistas are spectacular.  In places you can reach the water imagining yourself adrift on its still clear surface.  

Glenorchy is nestled in a gorgeous valley surrounded by stunning snow capped high peaks. The town consists of only a few shops.  It sits on one end of Lake Wakatipu with Queenstown on the other. The water can be turquoise blue depending on the light.  With the lighting on the mountains and lake changing throughout the day, you’re always experiencing Glenorchy anew. 

The area is rich in heritage and fantasy. If you grew up there, you would know that it was a farming and mining community.  Everyone knows everyone.

It’s a great place to raise sheep.  You see them everywhere on the expansive grassy, green slopes above the lake. White and wooly, they catch your eye, inviting you to join them on the still and quiet hillsides. It’s easy to transport yourself given the magic of the place.

Outside of Glenorchy is Paradise Valley. We left the pavement, but turned back as the dusty, washboard of a dirt road was to slow and difficult to navigate safely.  Thus we didn't quite make it to Paradise, about 4 clicks further on. However, we were not disappointed.  The surrounding landscape to Paradise is wild, undeveloped, and breathtakingly gorgeous. 

 The entire area feels majestic and mythological. The Dart River drains into the lake originating in the Misty Mountains. Wetlands edge the lake and flocks of ducks appear happy and safe from predators.   Scenes from the Lord of the Rings were shot in this region.  The natural wonder here is an inspiration for movie effects artists who specialize in the unimagined.  New Zealand is a treasure trove of fanciful landscapes.   

Te Anau & Milford Sound

Te Anau is a small village about 2.5 hours from Queenstown.  It also sits on a beautiful lake.  If you are going to Milford Sound, you must pass through here. Many people, though, never stop in Te Anau.  That would be a grievous mistake. The surrounding area is another ecological treasure. 

 We had been told that the drive to Milford Sound takes about 2.5 hours. We understood that there was limited parking at the boat docks.  With so many people visiting Milford you might have to wait for a parking space to open up. This concerned me.    We were encouraged to take a tour bus.  We were also told that the drive there was awe-inspiring.  You wouldn’t want to rush through this landscape, so driving would be the only way to experience the area.

 I awoke during the night in a cold sweat.  I was worried about our planned boat departure of late afternoon with parking being such a problem.  The first boats depart at 9am and people can camp overnight close to the park entry.  Thus the early passengers could quickly fill the parking lots.  I decided to leave Te Anau by 630am and drive directly to Milford Sound. 

This was a good decision.  The morning was clear and sunny.  Clouds and mist settled into the mountainous valleys.  I wanted to stop every 5 minutes for photos, but I knew that every stop interpolated into a 20-minute detour. We agreed on only one stop on the way in.  We would have lots of time after the boat trip to explore all the beautiful scenic vista points, waterfalls, and short rain forest hikes. We were so close to the area that if the sights warranted it, we could return another day.   We only stopped at Mirror Lake, the peaks and clouds reflected in a surreal motionless reproduction on its surface. 

The Homer Then The Sound

Quite suddenly a flashing light appeared in the midst of several curves, signaling us of a stop ahead.  A small cue of cars formed at the entry to the famous Homer tunnel.  A digital sign told us that we had a 10-minute wait before we could enter. Once the light turned green, we began in a single file to traverse the steep, unlit tunnel.  It was a thrilling downhill glide in the dark with the ceiling dripping water like a sieve. I needed to brake the car every few meters as we drove over a kilometer of potholes and small creeks. Finally we erupted into daylight encapsulated by tropical rainforest and a spectacular view.

Soon we were rolling into the car park. It was nearly full with several 100 cars.  Our planning had paid off as we immediately found an open space. We had arrived quickly to Milford Sound, faster than anticipated, with little traffic to slow us down.  Had we left 2 hours later, we would have  encountered a slow procession of large tourist buses and camper vans. They were thick in the parking lot when we returned from our cruise.

We gathered our gear and headed for the boats. We discovered that our boat company had space on their 9am charter. The morning was sunny and so we asked to change departure times. I knew from my boating experience in the San Juan Islands that the weather could change at any time.  The quality of the momentary light, interacting with the peaks on the sound, could dissolve rapidly into a flat, lifeless panorama.

After a breathtaking hour and hundreds of photographs, our boat pierced the entry to the sound from the open ocean. The Tasmanian Sea was unusually calm, more like the surface of a bathtub. We were reminded that it’s often a wild, undulating monster. 

Within minutes the skies turned a pale grey.  The whimsical, wispy bands of morning mist nearly disappeared.  The view was still beautiful and the experience captivating, but the day was losing the magic of light and shadow witnessed in that first hour. 

We chose to tour Milford Sound on a Mitre Peak Charter.   They were recommended to us, as their boats are smaller and more maneuverable.  Our cruiser was half full with only 35 people.  NZ school vacation season had just ended and the first sail of the day is always under booked.  There was an abundance of room to move about. Only a handful of passengers joined us on deck in the crispy morning air.   

 We led the fleet of much larger boats from the harbor.  Our knowledgeable skipper filled us in with Milford Sound history.  Unlike the stories of overcrowding that we had heard, we felt that we had the Sound all to ourselves.

The rocky walls of the Sound are close.  Its mountainous formations rise straight up from the sea floor. There are several impressive waterfalls that cascade from above.  In order to breathe in the beauty and serenity of the place, you needed to adjust your view as if seated in the first row of Teatro Colon. The early light was a photographer’s dream.  A wide-angle lens captured it all.

The Sound is several hundred meters deep.  It is home to fish, seals, and penguins.  We stopped to observe newborn seals lounging on the rocks.  Occasionally a feeding fish would break the stillness of its mirror like surface.  It's apparent why Milford Sound is often referred to as the eighth wonder of the world. 

We left Milford Sound around noon.  The bus and car parking lots were now full with cars waiting for space. We stopped at several vistas and took several short hikes on the way out.  The traffic coming into the sound was nearly bumper-to-bumper at times. Big buses, traveling 5 hours from Queenstown, moved cautiously on the windy road.  The lighting never regained its early morning quality, but the views were still breathtaking.

The boat tour was my birthday gift from Sara.  How she arranged the sun and mist over Milford, she wouldn’t say.  
 
Back In Te Anau

We arrived back in Te Anau late afternoon and had an early dinner.  Though we had a full day, there was still time and energy for a lakeside stroll.  It was nearing sunset. The fading light spilled over the surrounding peaks, illuminating its crevices.   

The clouds entertained, billowing upward with orange and yellowish hues, exhibiting dirt colored bottoms in contrasting shades of grey. They paraded over the lake in various forms and shapes while remaining stationary over the land and mountains. They proudly conveyed the weather and what tomorrow might bring.

Soon the sun was completely gone along with the rich vibrant colors.  All that remained were shades of grey to black.   The shadows continued to deepen and welcome the night.  Back in our room I did some laundry knowing that most of my tech gear would be dry in the morning.  Cotton clothes could take several days to dry.

A Sheep Or The Cow

There are sheep farms everywhere.  It's not uncommon for a rancher to have several thousand head.  The lambs aren't worth much unless the price of wool is high then they get sheared too.  It's quite the competition between shearers' shearing sheep.  Sheep don't complain about the style or quality of the cut, though some probably should.  They look like they’d been butchered before they have. 

Sara thinks sheep have a better life then a cow.  Cows are raised for meat.  Sheep wool is harvested.  Sure a mature sheep makes a delicious mutton stew, but his chances of outliving a cow are good.  Of course a dairy cow has a sweet life too.  It produces milk, cheese, and butter products.  When you see them all roaming the hillsides, you can't help but think they've got it pretty good. Things are changing.  I understand that feedlots do exist, but they’re uncommon. The pastoral model still reigns. You can taste the difference in the meat.

Waikawa & The Catlins Coast

We breezed through Invercargill on our way to the Catlins Coast.  The towns of Winton and Invercargill are full of ornate historic properties, mostly in need of renovation.  They are treasures that need attention as the area offers great tourist potential.  These towns were quite wealthy at one time with timber mills and a thriving export market.

From Te Anau it’s only a couple of hours to the coast. Once you leave the mountains, you’ll find mostly cattle and sheep stations. Apparently with so much rain and the abundance of grassy farmland, other animal feed is not grown commercially.  You will not find fields of corn, soy, and wheat in this region. And like commercially raised meat, where you do find these crops or produce grown, they will be free of genetically modified organisms.  New Zealand is recognized as having one of the most comprehensive approval regimes for GMO’s in the world. 

The Catlins Coast is Wellington Windy.  It never seems to let up.  It’s beautiful to observe the way the wind moves the cattails and sea grass.  We stayed in Waikawa, a one-store stop with museum, an historic church, and bungalows to rent.   Our self-contained unit offered a tranquil view of the bay.   Only the noise of the wind broke the silence as it rushed by, animating the scene with whispers of movement. In such moments I find myself pondering the possibility of something greater than myself.  It’s as if all before me is an intricate weave of universal substance to which I’m deeply interconnected.  It’s a feeling of being a part of everything and everyone. I am the stone, the tree, the sea, the birds, all that is inert, and all that is vital.  

Nearby is Curio Bay where you’ll find a fossilized Jurassic Forest. Supposedly over 170 million years old, a number difficult for anyone to fathom, there was major volcanic activity along the coast.  Today you see the remains of trees now petrified. They were covered in ash and absorbed high levels of silica that turned them to stone. 

We had hoped to see the Yellow Eyed Penguins that roost in this area. They leave very early in the morning to fish and return to their young in the evening after all day at sea.  There is only a brief window of opportunity to see them.  Tides and the cycle of the sun affect their return.  They climb out of the water onto the rocks, waddle over petrified logs, and disappear into their nests. 

There are also Dolphins in the bay and furry seals. Large sea lions are easily sighted while walking wind swept beaches.  They rest on the sand, bathing in the heat from the sun.

Like so many places in New Zealand, there are lots of sheep in the Catlins. I know that this isn’t the first time that I’ve referenced them, nor will it be the last.  We saw thousands of them, feasting and reclined on the green, hilly slopes.  Some were shorn, naked to the elements, and others were in waiting for a good cut.  Some of the shorn sheep had paint sprayed on their faces, red or green.  It reminded me of my Portland neighborhood where bright, multicolored hair is common.  The sheep cuts aren't perfect.  These are artists in a hurry.  The get paid by the kilo of sheep wool shorn.

Other than sheep, cattle, and a few small towns, The Catlins seem isolated from the rest of New Zealand.  Tourists visit the area for its natural beauty. There are waterfalls and hikes through the rain forest that attract backpackers. Farms are spread out and few.  Without visitors like us, the roads would be empty.

There are many tour buses, camper vans, and suburban sized cars on the road. Chinese tourists favor the bigger, more powerful cars, even though they barely fit within the narrow lanes.   As for 4-wheel drive, you really don’t need it unless you are going off road.  It might seem useful given the isolation of some destinations, but it’s not essential.  Today most roads are paved.   

In New Zealand you would have to look long and hard for an ugly place.  We still haven't found any.  Everywhere the scenery amazes and impresses.  And the friendly locals that you meet add a charming flavor to your visual feast, leaving you satiated with fond memories and a vow to return another day.

Owaka

We spent the night in a hospital.  It was a creaky old building with a coal fired hot water system.  When the hospital closed down, it was bought and  converted into private rooms and dorms.  It looks like the movie set for Sometimes A Great Notion.  The place was full of creaky ghosts and whispers.  I dreamt the unimaginable and slept with one eye open just in case.  You can see how an ordinary place can birth an adventure in a creative mind.

Down the road at the Lumber Jack Bar and Café, we had several delicious meals.  Our favorite was blue cod, always cooked to perfection. It was deep fried in hot oil until golden brown.  The secret is to get the oil hot enough so that its not absorbed by the fish.  Yummy!  Darrel and Janice are the owners.  Darrel is a master chef.  His domain is the kitchen.

I prepared a list of country folk music for Darrel’s wife, Janice. She managed the tables interacting with the public. She was on the lookout for some new background music for the restaurant.  She had an extensive collection all ready.  Many of my suggestions were all ready familiar to her. She appreciated the effort and would check out the others via YouTube to see if they could work as dinner background music. 

Outside of Owaka is the Nugget Point lighthouse. The dead end road to the lighthouse hugged the shoreline for miles above the ocean. In some places it was a mere 2 meters above it.   I wondered if the sea ever breached the road on a high tide.

The road itself was washboard and gravel.  It was extremely bumpy. I worried for our axles and tires.  And like so many other places, sheep invaded our hillside view. 

There was so much dust raised by passing vehicles that you could taste it.  Oversized vehicles and travel vans, in a hurry to see New Zealand in a day, would speed by on the tightest of curves and too narrow road. 

Once at the lighthouse trailhead, you needed to hike out on a rocky outcropping to where the lighthouse stood. The offshore rock formations looked treacherous with waves constantly breaking over them.  On some of the rocks we saw a herd of fur seals.  Unfortunately we saw no penguins except for one solidary bird eyeing the horizon awaiting a meal and the return of the others.  

The Catlins Night Sky

 In New Zealand there is a place ranked as the best star gazing site on the planet.   It's located in the Catlins on the Southern tip of the South Island. 

I awoke one night at 3am to view the night sky. It was absent of city lights and pollution.  The quantity and clarity of stars was humbling.  I had installed 2 apps on my iPad for stargazing called SkyviewFree and SkyGuide.

The iPad with built in GPS knows within meters where you are and what the night sky should look like at different times of the day. Thus you align the stars/constellations above with the star graphics on the iPad.   It immediately identifies the stars and constellations.  These apps are useful learning tools for exploring the universe while traveling in different parts of the world.

The stars in the Southern Hemisphere are different than those in the Northern Hemisphere. There are often familiar constellations near the horizon, but unfamiliar one’s in the night sky directly above.  Navigators use the Southern Cross around New Zealand while up North of the equator, say Hawaii, the North star will guide you home. 

Owaka To Dunedin

The road from Owaka to Dunedin roams through pasturelands.  We left Owaka very early on a Sunday, without traffic, and made very good time to the outskirts of Dunedin. Our plan was to visit the Otago Peninsula and hopefully see the Penguin Colony before checking into our hotel.  The road out to the end of the Peninsula hugged the coastline only a meter from the sea for nearly 25 kilometers.  Though still early, we were now one of many cars. The procession of large campers would have made a great commercial, but it wasn’t much fun to be behind them as they moved at a snail pace on an extremely windy road.  The gorgeous views compensated, however.

When we arrived at the Penguin sanctuary there were none to be found.  All had all ready gone fishing.  We did find a baby penguin in its nest, silently awaiting its mother’s return with a substantial meal.  There were a few fur seals lounging on the rocks, but other than the hordes of visitors, not much else.  On our return, the overcast sky opened, penetrated by rays from the sun.  They illuminated the landscape with shafts of light, in ways that you wouldn’t notice in full sunlight.  The day was developing nicely with the promise of a great afternoon to explore Dunedin. 

Our hotel was located downtown.  It was a beautifully restored architectural gem, one of many, that reflected the wealth that once embraced Dunedin.   We parked the car, settled into our room, and then set off to meander the downtown.  Many of the historic buildings were built in the late 1800's and many had now been restored. 

Dunedin was a sleepy village until an Australian prospector discovered gold. Soon over 11000 miners would descend on the area, pitching their white tents on every open space, with the hope of striking it rich.  Dunedin soon became New Zealand’s richest city, built from the treasure unearthed by these diggers. 

A few blocks from our hotel we discovered a gold mine of street art.  There were several well-executed 3-story high murals.  I've been photographing street art in Buenos Aires. Some have been invited by local city governments in different barrios to enliven decaying walls with color.  The impact that well designed and executed street art can have on our daily lives is uplifting.  It’s the art of the people. Now that we've explored Eden, we are off to Mt. Cook and the lake region.

Dunedin To Twizel

Our next destination was Twizel.  It’s a small town centrally located for tramping and exploring the Mt. Cook area.  We planned a full day of side trips so that we would arrive late afternoon.

Before heading out of Dunedin, we decided to climb the steepest street in the world. No thought was given to the terrain when neighborhood streets were laid out.  Once, completed, it was short, straight, and very steep.  Thus Baldwin street became notoriously famous with its inclusion in the Guinness Book of Records. 

We arrived about 830am to find Baldwin Street swarming with two busloads of Chinese tourists. Some were at the top, others climbing up, and everyone photographing everyone else.  Soon the guide called for a return to the bus and within minutes the street was deserted.

Baldwin Street is located in a very quiet residential neighborhood. Homes line the street. We decided to climb to the top ourselves. Walking on the Street itself requires a keen sense of balance and flexibility.

Climbing up a Mountain is always easier than coming down.  Sara chose the sidewalk stairs while I enjoyed the challenge of walking at such an extreme angle while taking in the incredible unobstructed hillside view.   

It would be unnerving to drive down the street.  I can’t fathom having to drive up and down it daily.  It’s a clean shot to the bottom and runs into a neighborhood feeder street.  Unlike Lombard Street in San Francisco there are no switchbacks to slow your descent.

The Boulders

Our next stop was the Moeraki boulders. They were easy to reach, located on the beach off the main road toward Twizel.  You are not prepared for what you see.  These aren’t small stones, but large, spherical shapes clustered, like eggs, waiting to release something unimaginable to an earthling. They vary in size from .5 to 2.0 meters. 

Some appear to have agate veins running through them. Some are broken, open like the pedals of a flower or a hatched egg. But most are just there, round and whole.  They lay beneath the cliffs or on the beach itself.  They appear alien washed ashore from a subterranean nest. You couldn't help but wonder at the mystery, even purpose of the boulders. They felt prehistoric and unexplainable as to how they got there.  

When we arrived, tourists, mainly Chinese, were swarming over many of the boulders snapping selfies.  It was laughable as there were 30 times the tourists as boulders.  As we approached the boulders for a close up inspection, the crowd dissipated, leaving us nearly alone with our thoughts and these mysterious spheres of stone and agate. 

The coastal highway connects Dunedin to Christchuch.  Not far from the boulders we would leave the coastal highway, turn left onto another road, and travel inland toward Mt. Cook.  A right turn was also possible.  It takes you to the coastal town of Oamaru.  We were ready for a coffee as we had nearly 3 hours of driving left to reach Twizel. We decided to turn right. 

Victorian Splendor

Oamaru is a Victorian town of magnificent historic splendor.  The condition and abundance of quality buildings was unforeseen by us.  These structures were not built of rain forest timber, but locally quarried stone. Several of the buildings presented a neoclassical façade with larger than life pillars. All were impressive, one after another, blocks of them. 

Oamaru was once extremely wealthy.  Its port was a main transit point for exported cattle.  Then Dunedin began to compete with its deeper bay that could handle much bigger boats.  Hopefully my photos convey some of Oamaru's former grandeur. 

We explored the historic district, Main Street, and several shopping areas.  Buildings were being renovated and converted into shops.  We enjoyed an espresso at a popular local cafe and pondered our good fortune for making that right hand turn.  Oamaru was never recommended nor noticed during our research.  Yet its small town magnificence challenged the splendor of historic Dunedin.

A Twizel Stop

We arrived in Twizel late afternoon.  Every room in this desert zone for miles around was booked.  We had researched online campgrounds as our last resort.  What we found was better than a campsite.  They had a few private rooms with wifi, fridge, TV, and bathroom. We would stay here for 4 nights in order to tramp and explore the Mt. Cook National Park. 

Our room was in a repurposed building once used as a bunkhouse for construction workers on the local dam.   It was cheaply constructed with a tin roof that absorbed any sun that reached it.  The desert was cooler at night so the room would become bearable after sunset.  We settled into our cozy quarters, thankful for our good fortune.  We opened all the windows and the door welcoming the memorable afternoon breeze. 

We had chilled fresh salads for dinner under a shade tree.  As it got darker, it got colder.  Returning to our room it was now perfect for sleeping.  All was dead quiet.

 We were exhausted and slept soundly.  We awoke late at 930am.  Normally we are up by 7am.  The campground featured dorm style accommodations as well.  The place overflowed with backpackers in the evening, but emptied by the time that we got up. There were lots of hikes in the area.  It was best to set out early and avoid the midday sun.  We would do the same in the following days. 

 We went for coffee and sandwiches prepared by a young Argentine couple.  They worked to save some money, enjoy an area, and then would travel to another place. They talked Spanish at lightning speed.  Being able to fully express your ideas and articulate nuisances of detail in your own language is enlivening. We often forget the importance of the cultural component of our language until we are once again able to fully express ourselves.  Not many travelers speak Buenos Aires Spanish or know their country.  Sara was their new best friend. 

A Siren From Nowhere

Twizel was buried in a morning fog; however, as soon as we were out of town a few kilometers, we were greeted by sunshine.  Reflected in my side view mirror, you could see the fog. It appeared to be lifting.  Ahead the day was deep blue gorgeous with jagged mountains of yellows and browns.  In the center of this postcard was a snow capped Mt. Cook.  Wow! The view promised a day of spectacular scenery and adventure.

 I slowed the car, as there was no traffic. The road was straight as an arrow and I could safely take in the view dead ahead cruising at 60kph (37mph).   Suddenly a siren screamed from behind.  I was pulled over for driving too slow in a 100kph zone.  No ticket, but I received friendly advice to stay with the speed limit. The officer said feel free to pull over anytime for photos. Though still no traffic, it was good advice.  Locals move at maximum velocity and my speed was dangerously slow for them. 

Out Of The Blue A World Of Purple

When you least expected it, the brownish, barren landscape erupted with purple. It was as if nature had spilled a container of paint.   A Lavender farm, like the police car, appeared out of nowhere.  We decided to stop and enjoy this contrast of vivid and subtle color.  It was an oasis in the desert.  Gorgeous! Yes, I use that word a lot, but in New Zealand it’s appropriate.

Further up the road we passed an enormous lake, run off from the glaciated mountains ahead.  Its color was a deep peacock blue accentuated by the surrounding desert colors.  The snow-capped peaks of stately Mt. Cook gave the view an ethereal quality.   Clouds wisped about the peaks framed by blue sky above and blue lake below. It was a symphony of color and grandeur.  It was a gift to witness the magic of the place.  It reaffirmed our choice to visit this isolated central region of the South Island. 

The Cook & The Hooker Tramp

The Hooker trek ascends to Hooker Lake at the foot of Mt. Cook embraced by glaciated peaks. The trail winds over 3 suspension footbridges and a raised wooden walkway that meanders half a mile through a soggy meadow. Even with the wind, the sun was hot.  Water cascaded from the snowfields down the canyon walls.  A few icebergs floated in the Lake. 

This was one our favorite hikes in New Zealand.
The sheer steepness of the rugged mountains pushing upward from the valley floor, topped with snow into late summer, were a testimony to the alluring grandeur of the place.  A river of white water roared in its descent. The colorful lichens, clinging to ancient rocks, enhanced the softer hues of the mineralized terrain.

There are similar landscapes in Montana, breathtakingly beautiful. Yet each has its own character, its geological choreography. These landscapes in New Zealand reaffirm its unparalleled eco diversity.  40 times smaller than the United Sates, you can't help but applaud its variety, its magic, and its worldly grandeur.

Mt. Cook National Park is designated a World Heritage Treasure.  It draws tourists from all around the world, busloads of them. A surprising number of them are nouveau riche Chinese.  They are apparently very wealthy.  Helicopter flights over the glaciers at $500 per person are not cheap.   Yet the Chinese take the entire family with them.  It's not the money for them, but the once in a lifetime experience. I met only polite and respectful Chinese. I wish that I spoke some Mandarin as I find their culture fascinating. My two trips to China only whetted my appetite to explore more of their remarkable country.  

If the Chinese are not on tour buses, then they've rented SUVs to tour the country.  Driving in China is much different where the rules of the road are less defined and enforced.   Unfortunately some drive as is they do at home where there are fewer cars.  This practice is extremely dangerous in New Zealand.

All visitors normally lack experience for these narrow country roads.  Observation and conservatism give way to acceleration and aggression.  I would rather confront a sports car or a motorcycle, than a supersized car.   

The distances are vast and 4 hours of driving a day is normal.  I found my daily naps kept me lucid. After lunch, we would find a shady tree off the main road, roll down the windows, adjust the seat to full recline, and snooze to the buzz of bees and the occasional baa’s of sheep.

Twizel To Christchurch

No one showed any interest in the three-meter high bush that was thick with fruit. They were ripe and ready to harvest, but I didn’t know if they were poisonous, the possible reason for them being ignored. 

I asked around before eating them. My inquiry at the office revealed that the small yellow fruit outside our room was a variety of Plum.  They were excellent for making jam. Thus they would also make a tasty midday snack.

One lady from the Local market was very curious as to where I found them.  Like gold, some treasure is best kept secret.  I love it when you discover wild and free, edible fruit.  Seriously if the many guests staying at our campground motel realized how flavorful these plums were, the tree would have been empty. 

We picked some plums, packed the car, and set off for Christchurch. The road was heavy with traffic and afforded many inspirational vistas of the mountains reflected on the turquoise lake.  It was hard not to stop every kilometer, breathing in the serenity and magnificence of Mt. Cook.

Most of the road was straight, passing through farmland.  We passed through a few small towns.   Like many other New Zealand roads, the hills off in the distance were full of grazing sheep and cattle.  In these parts the sheep were a darker coffee color and not the iconic virgin white seen in other parts.  Even the herds of cattle were dressed differently.  Many wore black and white contrasting splotches, rather than your usual cow brown.  The landscape was freshly green and small yellow wild flowers were abloom in abundance covering the hillsides. 

The traffic got heavier as we neared Christchurch. Soon we were in the thick of it.  I'd been using a navigational app called Pocket Earth to plan our routes and approximate drive times and it was very helpful with one way street navigation and taking us to our motel for the night.

First we detoured to the Courier Post depot for Sara's iPad.  It had been roaming all over the South Island without us for nearly three weeks.  We had given the hotel permission to put the charge on our credit card.  We were charged $5 for basic service.  For an additional three dollars, we could have had overnight delivery. All those phone calls to the hotel, the postal investigators, and Courier Depots would have been unnecessary. 

As it was, we had a few tense moments.  There was the thrill of possible discovery to discouragement and thoughts of theft. Time made us realize that there was nothing more that we could do.  We needed to let go. Everyone was looking for it, and we needed to let the iPad surface where it may.  It finally did here in Christchurch. 

Long Harbour The Akaroa

We stayed one night outside of Christchurch near the airport. The next morning we would explore the Akaroa peninsula.  It would save us several hours of travel time by visiting the peninsula now rather than after settling into downtown Christchurch.

Once you leave the highway, the bustle of Christchurch remains behind as well.  You are in the country.  The peninsula is mountainous, forested, and rim thick with bays offering water access for fishing, kayaking, and boating. There are also ample opportunities for walking, tramping, and enjoying the serenity and peacefulness of the landscape. 

The paved road heads toward the port of Akaroa. Akaroa in Maori means the long harbor. Along the way you pass through Little River sitting in a cozy valley surrounded by mountains. It has a main street with a few shops and restaurants. 

My daughter lives in Little River, California. It’s even smaller. They’ve got the Little River Market and the Little River Pump and Supply. That’s it.   You travel to Mendocino or Fort Bragg for restaurants and shopping.  I did some inquiry as to how these two very small towns might sister up.  Both are remarkable and worth visiting.  Everyone liked the idea so time will tell.   

The views of Akaroa from the mountain pass are spectacular.  It’s a long, windy and very steep, downhill drop to sea level.  The port sits on an inlet bay.  It is a very popular place for water related activity.

On our way back we crossed over mountains to Governor’s Bay and took a steep, windy shortcut to the top of the hills surrounding Christchurch.  Again it was another spectacular view.  It was informative to see the relationship of the city to the mountains, the sea, and it beaches.  No wonder residences of Christchurch prefer not to move. Of course for many it may also be a question of money and job opportunities.  5 years after the earthquake many homeowners are still negotiating insurance money. Everyone loses in an earthquake particularly when there are so many claims.      

Christchurch Shake Rattle & Roll

New Zealand sits on the edge of the Pacific Ring of Fire.  It’s only a matter of time before things shake, rattle, and roll like they did a few years ago. Much came tumbling down, but with persistence and determination, Christchurch is rebuilding from the mall up.

It seems poor judgment to build in the same place, when science is forecasting a repeat scenario. Yet the place must be difficult to leave behind.   Your life story is a product of Christchurch. The continuity of your experience will be shattered.  It makes sense to build anew in a new area on a different foundation.  For many this is a difficult choice.

The good news is that the rules have changed.  You can’t build over 3 stories. The outskirts of Christchurch are new one-story with an occasional two-story. Downtown there are hints of new construction everywhere as a new central core begins to emerge from the rubble.  They are building lower and embracing earthquake-proofing technology in all new construction. The city is rapidly working to complete the downtown mall.  

There were a handful of multistory buildings that were declared unsalvageable. Demolished these properties became one of the hundreds of parking lots that you see.  Many are waiting for financing and a new construction project. Rewritten building codes may be one of the better solutions for the shakes that will inevitably come.

Christchurch Toppled

Christchurch was nearly destroyed by an earthquake about 5 years ago.  It took out 80% of the historic central district. Even the cathedral was toppled.  In the last 5 years there have been roughly 6 earthquakes in Christchurch with a magnitude over 6.0.  In New Zealand there was 29 earthquakes noted, measuring over a magnitude of 5.0 during that same period.  New Zealand experiences about 20,000 quakes a year, most of minor magnitude.   Sara and I were expecting things to start shaking at any moment. 

The big earthquake in 2010 destroyed most of the city. There were 12000 aftershocks in the following year. In 2015 there has been only 5 earthquakes of notable size, most under a 4.0 magnitude. Any earthquake, even if it causes no visual damage, seismically weakens the rock mass on which the city rests. Many aftershocks can't be felt while driving in a car. Those that are noticed cause the road to buckle and roll.  

Many structures during the earthquake of 2010 were weakened, and then crumbled during the earthquake of 2011. Around 300 people lost their lives that afternoon.  Much of the downtown has been reinventing itself since. In order to reopen stores quickly 40 ft. metal containers were stacked, one on top the other creating the Container Mall. There you’ll find designer name brand shops, banks, and restaurants. 

Tourists are everywhere.  There are no rooms to be had in Christchurch.  Restaurants have lines and waits of 30 minutes minimum.  Neighborhood malls offer opportunities for changing money, shopping, or seeing a movie. Moneychangers, like in Auckland, offer much better rates than the banks so outlying malls are popular.   

A Delicious Feast & Unexpected Send Off

Christchurch has the largest international airport on the South Island.  Most traffic moves through Christchurch.  Tomorrow we fly to Brisbane for two weeks of beach time Australian style.  We are looking forward it.  We won't miss the long driving times.  In total we had 6 delicious weeks in New Zealand.  Every moment was special, feasting on breathtaking landscapes and ocean panoramas.

We returned the rental having driven 3712km on the South Island.  Our check in person expresses concern about a possible Donald Trump win.  Truly Trump is an embarrassment to me and many other Americans. In fact his speak frightens me.  How is it possible for him to acquire so many disciples?  Foreigners worry about his lack of respect, prejudicial views, indiscriminate lies, and malicious, bully tactics. I'm ashamed of his rhetoric. He represents me and every other American when he opens his mouth.   His supporters appear drawn to his inflammatory tongue and the fear that he generates.  Fear controls and he uses it like a loaded gun.  His voting base needs to reevaluate how their support will lead us to a better America.

It’s a beautiful morning as we approach the departure terminal.  There are no lines at check in.  We don't have seats assigned so I wanted to arrive early.  We end up with roomy seats on an exit row. Our bags are weighed and checked.

As the agent hands us our tickets, the building began to shake, maybe 10 seconds.  It took that long to figure out that we were experiencing an earthquake.  All the overhead monitors were shaking on their pivotal points for at least a half-minute.  We moved outside for safety away from the building.  We ate our lunch and waited for after shocks.

Christchurch news showed a section of Oceanside cliff crashing to the surf.  There was phone video of streets buckling like the track of a roller coaster.  Of the 20000 tremors a year, this one was larger that normal at 6.3 magnitude.  It will be memorable for Sara, her first earthquake.  It will be memorable for its timeliness to our departure.  New Zealanders really know how to send you off in style. 

Oz And Byron Bay

We arrived in Brisbane about 5pm.  The plan was to drive to Byron Bay about 2.5 hours away.  We had been upgraded at Budget to a larger, more difficult to park, newer car in valentine red.  I felt downgraded as this more luxurious larger vehicle was wide for the lanes especially in town and on rural roads.

I nearly broke my big toe on a submerged rock while bodysurfing.  It didn't hurt at first but 3 hours later it was begging for Motrin.  The motel manager asked for an explanation of my limp. When I told him, he impolitely told me that I needed to Man Up.  That’s Aussie-speak for telling me not to be a wimp.   I guess he wanted a more thrilling shark story. 

Things have changed in Byron Bay. We were there 2 year before.  There seemed to be more traffic, but most noticeable were the new parking meters at the beach.  It's like a placing toll on beach access.  If you are visiting for a few days, parking at$3-4 per hour can easily add $15 to 25 dollars a day to visit downtown for a meal, bank, shopping, or the beach for a swim.   I think that it's the only metered beach parking in the world other than at Bondi Beach in Sydney. Who comes up with these ideas?  It was already having a negative effect on tourism. Even locals and residents from neighboring towns were visiting the town center less.


Natural Bridge

I ran across some literature on nearby Springbrook National Park.  A highlight of the park is the Natural bridge waterfall spilling into Cave Creek below.  There were bats hanging from the ceiling. I didn’t see any glow-worms but understand that at night you do.  The drive there was pleasant with views of the surrounding mountains and the ocean below.  

On our way there, three motorcyclists passed us on the curves.  The road was narrow, winding its way from sea level to the rain forest park.  Reduced speed was essential to safe passage.   Ten minutes past and we came to a very steep but straight section of road.  At the bottom was a dead motorcyclist, blood draining from his head.  He had no helmet and looked frighteningly lifeless. Two or three people were standing over him and half a dozen cars had stopped.   His two friends were parked near by.  It looked like a car may have pulled out from a road at the bottom as the biker was picking up speed from the descent.  He must have hit some gravel and spilled the bike while he careened along the pavement on his stomach.  It was a horrible thing to see. Upset we continued on our way to natural bridge. We stopped in a small town for a coffee and a moment to process what we had just seen. 

We were sitting outside on some antique school desks when another couple joined us.  We began to talk and a half hour later they were inviting us to their home in the country on our way back from Natural Bridge.  That’s how quickly new friendships can develop.  It also speaks of Aussie Hospitality.  We were very tempted, but our route back to Byron Bay was via a coastal road.  We were revisiting Coolangatta near Tweed Heads. The beaches and waves are stunning as are the views across the water toward Surfer’s Paradise.


Last Night New Zealand

We left Oz for Auckland.  Our return ticket to Buenos Aires began there. Oz was an inexpensive detour for us with its excellent beaches and endless sun.

 This was my first trip on China Airlines.  We booked it online for our Brisbane-Auckland return flight. I would highly recommend it. We were flying on the cheap, but reviews gave the airlines favorable ratings.  It had high marks for keeping to schedule and onboard service.   When lunch was served, the stewardesses swarmed through the cabin. It seemed like only a few minutes had past before its 400 passengers were eating. This was not a discount lunch either.  It was tasty and well presented.  Free movies and intermittent naps helped past the time. 

We arrived in Auckland in the rain. After 10 days of hot sun and high humidity, the change in temperature was a relief. Outside the terminal we hopped on a shuttle bus that stopped 2 blocks from our hotel.

We checked into our room about 9pm. It was located on the 6th floor overlooking a busy intersection, but not too noisy.  It was tiny to say the least.  I could stretch my hands out above my head and touch the ceiling.  Lying on the bed, with my feet and arms extended, I could touch opposite walls.

Auckland was heavily booked and we were lucky to find a descent location and any room, even at double the normal room price.  It was now peak season and the city was crowded with tourists.  In addition there was a massive cruise ship in port that easily added its 2000 passengers to the streets.  It was nearly 10:30pm when we headed out for dinner, fish soup at a favorite Korean restaurant. 

We had one full day for last minute shopping.  The sun came out, warming things up, and showing off the best of Auckland. By late afternoon we were packed and ready to go to the airport. Our taxi driver, a friend of the hotel staff, gave us a heavily discounted fare, shuttle bus prices.

He was a happy, talkative man, and full of stories. He wanted his daughter to become a police officer as the benefits and pay were excellent in New Zealand.

 He was born in Fiji, barely spoke English, and could not read when he arrived in Auckland. He learned how to read and passed the exam to drive taxi.  He bought a taxi and was able to raise his 2 kids. 

His wife and he had a falling out.  They had a house and she succeeded in keeping everything.  She tried to frame him by putting marijuana on his person and reporting him to the police.  He was so thankful that the police hadn't found it or he would have gone to jail.  Now He was trying to save up money to buy another house.  There were more stories, but we had arrived at the airport.

Leavin' On A Jet Plane

New Zealand Airlines had us put on baggage tags and complete a lot of paperwork for our departure.  The lines were unusually long as we weaved through customs. Finally it was our turn to get our visa stamped.   We were standing in front of the same friendly immigration officer that passed us through the day before.  We all got a good chuckle.  The chances of that happening are rare indeed. Somehow he had managed to stop the rain for us. The chances of it not raining in Auckland are just as rare. 

Soon we were in the air leaving New Zealand behind us.   Yet our hearts and minds were full of unforgettable experiences, hobbits, and magical landscapes. There are so many wonderful places that we discovered.  Many beckoned for a second visit.  New Zealand is back on the bucket list.

The End



Posted by Señor Kent at 10:02 AM
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